Tynan http://tynan.com Life Outside the Box en-us Sat, 21 Jul 2018 07:51:52 +0000 http://sett.com Sett RSS Generator The Internet Is Full Of Surprises http://tynan.com/community/1167643 Suddenly, there it is. An in-page editor that says 'start writing your post here'. Well, why not? But still, it's a strange thing. Am I writing a post on somebody elses website now? How can that be? Did this Tynan, of whom I had never heard before just a few minutes ago, mess up the permissions for his CMS?

Well, whatever it is, I'm attending a meditation group at eight, and before that there's some other stuff I need to take care of, including fueling my body with some delicious food. So however strange this opportunity may be, I'll sign off now. Maybe another day.

Take care, whoever you are. And if there's one message I want to give you, one message I think every human being needs to hear, it's this:

You are beautiful! :)

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Tue, 14 Apr 2015 15:30:41 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/1167643
How does Tynan make money? http://tynan.com/community/50329 I idolize Tynan as much as the next reader, and I think his lifestyle is kickass. Yet even after reading his books and being a blog reader for years, I still can't figure out how he makes money. 

We know that he gets a couple of bucks when people buy his books on Amazon and when people sign up for SETT, but that's a pittance compared to a living wage. We know he used to be a professional gambler, likes to save, and lives incredibly frugally, but we also know he lost a large part of that money in some kind of overseas account mistake. (He's not clear on what it was, but he did say that he lost most of his earnings)

Is he living off of the leftovers of his gambling days? He's written a few blog posts concerning money, how he doesn't have to pay for most of the things normal people pay for, like rent, alcohol, mortgage, etcetera, and thus his day to day cost is incredibly low. But the man has to eat. And he pays for his RV parking spot, and he buys expensive travel gear, and flights that , even after his tricky discounts, aren't chump change. I find it hard to believe that all of that is still coming from years old gambling money.

We know he loves poker and is pretty darn good at it - perhaps he goes to some tournament whenever he needs cash and plays until he is satisfied? Tynan hasn't spoken much about poker in recent years as he used to, so maybe he's just focused on SETT, but it sounds to me like it's not a big part of his life anymore.

What do you think, fellow readers? (and/or the man himself) How does Tynan make money?

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Wed, 06 Mar 2013 12:27:03 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/50329
Rialta: Waste System http://tynan.com/community/163045 Let's get personal... I'm curious what everyone's expectations are, surrounding their waste systems, how much odor it gives off, etc.

My general usage would probably be considered light: I'm in the office everyday, during the day + usually don't spend the bulk of weekend time in the RV. So I don't accumulate much.

However, it seems like time, not quantity, is the biggest factor, when it comes to odors. Any amount of waste - from only 2 or 3 #1s all the way to a half-full tank of everything - seems to become noticeable (even if just slightly) after a week or two.

Also, whenever I drive, the black tank has to be empty. My experience is that any amount of waste - again, even only 2 or 3 #1s - will create noticeable odors whenever you drive for more than 20-30 minutes and they'll find their way up to the driver's area.

Finally, I've been A/B testing using a tank deodorant. I think I read HandyBob say that he doesn't use any tank deodorant because, in his opinion, needing to use a deodorant means the seals on your waste system aren't sufficiently keeping odors out + that's what you need to fix.

From my testing, I've decided that tank deodorant helps, a little bit.

What's everyone's general expectations and experience with this? Does any of it match the above?

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Sun, 27 Apr 2014 01:26:07 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/163045
Best Travel Deal Websites http://tynan.com/community/44158 Since many of us are interested in traveling, I thought it would be a great idea to start a thread about the best travel deal sites. Here are my favorites so far.

Holiday Pirates - this blog regularly posts great travel deals from most big European cities. Some of the recent deals include 300 EUR roundtrip flights from Europe to NYC, and 358 GBP flights from UK to Zimbabwe, Sudan or Ethiopia. This is an awesome resource for all European travelers.

Kayak - most people probably know this already. It's a great tool for finding flights and hotels, especially if you're traveling from or within the US.

SkyScanner - this site is great for comparing flight prices from different travel agencies. I've been able to find better prices than on Kayak or other American sites for flights departing from Europe.

FlightFox - this is a crowdsourcing site in which other people compete to find the best possible fares for your flights. I've never used it myself, but it could be very useful if you have a complicated itinerary. Those of you who are travel veterans could probably make some money there.

What are your favorite travel deal websites? 

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Thu, 14 Feb 2013 21:15:50 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/44158
Writing Partnership http://tynan.com/community/113623 Hey all,

I've picked up a couple creative writing books on the side, one being "Naked, Drunk and Writing: Shed Your Inhibitions and Craft a Compelling Memoir or Personal Essay," by Adair Lara. It's a great read on writing creative non-fiction that I highly recommend.

Anywho, I'm on to chapter 8, and it's about working with other writers.

Which brings me to my question:

Is anyone interested in starting a writing partnership? I write nearly every morning, and would love to be kept accountable by another writer. It's a great to way to improve quickly, something I'm quite interested in.

Adair Lara, the author of "Naked, Drunk and Writing" suggests sending your writing once per day to another writer, who then highlights all the good parts he or she sees in your piece, and makes constructive comments throughout the paper/essay/writing piece.

Here's what would happen: I write something, you write something, and every day, we exchange what we wrote via e-mail. Then, we provide feedback for each other's writing, and return the feedback before the following morning.

So, we're looking at a commitment of between 30-60 minutes per day, depending on how long you like to write. I write for 30 minutes, and it will take me another 10 to read through a short piece and highlight the parts I like, so for me, it's 40 minutes of responsibility per day.

And, on the plus side, I normally write about traveling, so, at the very least, you'll get to read a few interesting travel stories.

If every day is too much of a commitment, we can always discuss scaling it back.

Let me know!

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Fri, 21 Feb 2014 13:39:26 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/113623
Asking advice on money making blogs http://tynan.com/community/54399      I am looking for advice on how to start money making blogs.  I have seen and heard about these blogs, but I haven't investigated enough to see how I can make a consistent income from having a blog.  I know the basics about having a great niche on a unique topic that I would pound out articles on the subject.  And hopefully they would be authentic and interesting articles that would keep people coming back to the site to read.  I can do that, no problem.

      I see that some blogs sell some type of service and/or product, such as an e-book that gives a How-To guide to something (financial independence, wedding planning, vacationing on the moon, etc).  I could put something like that together over time.  I just don't like the idea of selling advice to people that they can click around the internet and find for free.  If I did have one great skill is sales and marketing abilities.  I am clever at figuring out ways for a business to get sales going.  I have helped numerous businesses get their sales plan going, but some didn't have the energy and fortitude to do the plan.  Some businesses need to do direct cold calls to potential clients, and they just do not like to do cold calls.

      The next step I see is to make a passive income by setting up Google Adsense, Pay Per Click and affliate income.  I can see that there are some possibilities that someone would read an article on my blog, and then maybe click on one of the ads.  I rarely do that when I'm surfing the internet.  I notice Tynan.com doesn't have ads on this site from adsense, unless I'm just not aware they are here.

     I guess there is the possibility that I set up links to other business sites that would pay me if someone clicked over to their site from mine.  I would think the chances of that happening would greatly increase if I put their website into some of the articles, and mentioned for the reader to go check out product X on this website.  I have met one guy in my area that has a website that has sales in the millions, and he only has one main product line and the rest of his site are other websites with those companies products.  He has a team of SEO and Tech guys in his office that he pays them a lot.  He told me he spends an enormous sum on website security.  He has over 20 employees and his office is buzzing with activity.

      I don't want any employees and little to no inventory.  I also want to keep my expenses to a minimum.  

      I checked out the sites for sale at Flippa.com.  I am not tech savvy enough to know what is a good deal and what is a scam.  

      I thought I could get some feedback here, and learn some more from some guys that are actually making money with their blogs.  And, maybe someone wants to partner up and we try a few blogs together as a test run and see how it turns out.  Anybody interested?

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Thu, 09 May 2013 13:34:11 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/54399
How to Get 3.5mm Audio-In on the Sony NEX-5 series http://tynan.com/community/nex-5-audio-in Ever since the first NEX-5 came out, I've been trumpeting its strong points. With the notable exception of the amazing new Sony RX1, the NEX-5 series is the smallest camera with an APS-C or bigger sensor. In other words, it's the smallest camera that you can really get ]]>

Ever since the first NEX-5 came out, I've been trumpeting its strong points. With the notable exception of the amazing new Sony RX1, the NEX-5 series is the smallest camera with an APS-C or bigger sensor. In other words, it's the smallest camera that you can really get professional level shots out of. The two big features that I've wanted ever since Sony came out with this camera are in-camera charging so that I don't have to carry around a separate charger, and an audio-in port.

The built in microphone is acceptable, but if there's any amount of wind or background noise, audio quality degrades very quickly. Despite the incredible optical quality of the camera, the audio quality when recording videos has been its Achilles' heel, making many videos unusable. All that Sony would need to do to fix this is put a tiny little microphone jack on the camera. The new NEX-6 and the NEX-7 both have microphone jacks, but getting that jack isn't worth the (admittedly small) increase in camera size.

In a desperate attempt to improve sound quality, I bought Sony's own solution, a microphone that clips to the top of the camera. While it's better than the built-in mic, the microphone was still vulnerable to camera noise as well as background noise. Plus, sometimes you just want to wear a little clip-on lav mic and not worry about outside sounds.

I searched online for some solution, but although there was speculation that it might be possible to hack something together, no one had actually done it. One night, as I drifted off to sleep, my mind circled back around to the microphone issue. I had been recording a video every day for a couple months, and I really wished that I could just plug a microphone in. There had to be a solution. I decided that since the add-on Sony mic wasn't that great anyway, I'd take it apart the next day and see what I could figure out.

Now, it may be worth pausing here to mention that I am not great with electronics. I have the cheapest soldering iron available, and I barely know how to use it. In fact, my method of soldering is so bad that I suspect I'm the only one who does it this way. Other than a childhood penchant for taking things apart (and usually not bothering to put them back together), I have no real experience with this sort of stuff. I mention all this, because I imagine that the following paragraphs are going to a) make me sound like I know what I'm doing and b) possibly scare you away from trying this. The reality is that I'm a complete amateur who's just dedicated and reckless enough to make stuff like this happen, and that the process is actually pretty easy.

So the next morning I woke up and began prying away at the microphone. It was actually pretty fun finding all the hidden screws and detentes holding the thing together. Cut down to its bare components, the Sony ECM-SST1 has a very strange design. It has two very cheap looking microphones, but they're suspended by rubber bands as you'd expect a high-end microphone to be constructed. One faces straight forward and the other faces directly perpendicular to the side. I can't quite wrap my head around how Sony gets good stereo separation from a design like this, but it does. Upon seeing the setup, I actually put the mic back together to test the stereo functionality. My guess is that the front mic is responsible for picking up all the sound and that the sideways mic is responsible for positioning. I mention this not because it's at all relevant to the procedure I'm going to outline, but rather because I figure it may give more experienced people some ideas on how to improve my method.

I found a pinout diagram online of the proprietary (why does everything have to be proprietary, Sony?) connector, which clearly labeled the microphone channels. Of interest is that there are actually THREE channels, plus a ground. Left, right, and center. Also of interest, the microphone doesn't use the center channel. So it's there for some accessory that hasn't yet revealed itself, I guess. I cut the left, right, and microphone ground, and wired them up to a microphone.

It recorded sound, but it was extremely noisy and hard to hear. Far worse than the internal mic. I tried reversing the channels, using just left or just right as mono channels, grounding the ground to other stuff, but nothing would make it sound anywhere approaching decent. Always noisy. This was pretty frustrating, because I was sure that it would work. I was impelled to give up, but the dream of audio-in for the NEX was just too real. There had to be some way to do it.

I clumsily soldered the tiny wires that I had cut back together, insulated them with heat shrink tubing, and stared at the blasted contraption. I cut all of the wires going to the two front microphones and decided to test what would happen if I hooked the front one up to an audio jack. I should mention here that the suspense was excruciating, because for every test I'd have to solder everything together, record a video, and then transfer it to the computer to listen and make sure the audio quality was good. But in this case it paid off-- I was rewarded with crystal clear audio! The first words ever uttered into an NEX-5N via a 3rd party microphone were "Oh god, this had better work."

Giddy with success, I immediately set out to figure out the best way to use my contraption on a long term basis. All of my tests had been done with the guts of the microphone strung along across the top of the camera. Hardly a sustainable solution. My first inclination was to use the now defunct microphone enclosure, adding an audio port to the back. I actually went so far as to drill a hole in the back of it, when I spotted the NEX flash across my desk. Now, I'm not sure if I'm just such a bad photographer that I don't understand how to use the flash, or if this flash is so bad that makes every photo look worse, but I never use it. Maybe, I thought, I could make it into an enclosure for the microphone circuitry. This would allow me to have a much smaller unit and a flat surface on the top to mount a microphone-carrying cold shoe.

Next thing I knew, I was prying apart the flash and had discarded the innards of it, leaving a nice empty shell to play with. A bit of drilling and cajoling later, I had my unit all together. Nonfunctional flash in front, audio processing on the inside, and a nice 3.5mm audio jack on the side. Triumphantly I recorded a video explaining what I had done and swapped it over to my computer to hear how good it sounded. And it did sound good-- in the left channel. It turns out that in my haste to put the flash back together, I had pulled loose one of the extremely delicate wires attached to the connector. The next half hour of my life was spent trying to fix this, and, in the process, breaking most of the other wires and covering the whole hot mess in solder. In short, I completely ruined everything.

I did what any other reasonable person would do next, and I ordered another Sony microphone to gut for parts. It arrived today, and I'm happy to say that using its cable I was able to hook up my original board to make the first ever fully-functional 3.5mm microphone port for a Sony NEX-5. Here's proof:

If you'd like to do the same, here's how (video at the bottom):

1. First, take apart the microphone. I recorded a full video on how to do this below, so I won't get into the particulars here. The short version of it is that you uncover the hidden screws at the bottom to remove the connector, and then very carefully pry everything else apart. Be particularly careful with the cable that runs from the connector to the board, because it's damn near impossible to repair if you break it.

2. From the microphone, all you need is the cable I mentioned in step one, and the squarish logic board. There are five or so wires coming off of the board. If you're a better tinkerer than I am, I bet you can figure out how to use them all to get stereo sound. If you're not that clever, just pull off all of them except for the two closest to the edge, labeled M1 and MicGND. I pulled those off, too, and soldered directly to their pads, but this was pretty tricky and I wouldn't bet in favor of me duplicating the feat. Better to just leave the wires attached and use them.

3. Desolder the switch. To do that, just pinch the switch in a way that pulls it from the board, while applying the soldering iron to the opposite side. Hold it until your fingers burn, take a second to cool down, and try again. You'll make incremental progress, feeling the switch detaching from the board. Just a couple minutes of this will get it off. I blobbed a bunch of solder between the two contacts labeled 90. I'm not sure if it's necessary to do this or not, but it seemed like a solid idea.

4. So now you should have a cable, the square board, and just two leads coming off of it. Now look towards your flash with warring eyes and start taking it apart, too. Just remove the connector part as we did with the microphone, and then remove the plastic sticky panels on the side and hit those four black screws. Whatever you do, do not remove the silver screws that are holding the springs down. It's not necessary, and I'm not sure there's a more frustrating task than trying to put them back in. Pull out all the flash business, keeping only the plastic grey shell and the clear plastic lens. You can also get rid of the big vertical piece of plastic inside the flash and the smaller vertical piece behind the big thumbscrew. Pay special attention to the angle that the clear flash lens sits at-- it's not obvious once you take it apart.

5. Next you drill a 1/4" hole in the side of the flash for the audio jack to go through. You'll have to do a bit of positioning and measuring to find the right spot for it. Only once you've drilled that hole should you solder the leads of the audio jack to the leads coming off of your audio board.

6. I covered the whole board in masking tape just to make sure it didn't accidentally bump up against the audio jack contacts and short something.

7. There will probably be only one way that the board will fit in at this point, so go ahead and put it in. Hopefully you tested this before positioning your audio jack.

8. Now just close the whole thing up. The two front black screws won't have anything to bite into anymore, but put them in anyway. The adhesive plastic will hold them in place and together they'll prevent the top from becoming separated. Use the connector cladding pieces that you took from the microphone. The ones that came with the flash won't connect correctly without some modification.

And that's it! If it comes out anything like mine, it will be just a little bit janky looking, but will function like a champ. Here's a video of the procedure:

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Thu, 27 Sep 2012 07:21:52 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/nex-5-audio-in
Rolexes: Why They're Awesome and How to Get Them Dirty Cheap http://tynan.com/community/buyrolex SHORT VERSION: Here is a link to my saved search on eBay that shows cheap Rolexes that are probably worth buying. Read on to see why. A month ago or so I wrote a post called, No One Cares if you Buy a Rolex. If you didn't read it and don't feel like doing any link-clicki]]>

SHORT VERSION: Here is a link to my saved search on eBay that shows cheap Rolexes that are probably worth buying. Read on to see why.

A month ago or so I wrote a post called, No One Cares if you Buy a Rolex. If you didn't read it and don't feel like doing any link-clicking, the gist of it was that when I was younger I bought a Rolex, assuming that people would be really impressed, but in the end no one noticed or cared. You can't buy your way into being interesting.

Ironically, in writing that post, I remembered how much I loved my Rolex, despite the fact that no one else cared about it. At the same time, I had stopped really using the advanced features of the Suunto GPS watch that I had, and was thinking about getting some different watch.

Maybe I ought to get a Rolex, I thought...

Getting something as a status symbol is really lame. Although Rolexes are seen as status symbols (again... that's mostly in theory because no one ever notices them), they're also really excellent watches. I don't think most people understand just how good a Rolex really is.

A Rolex (with the exception of a now discontinued line called the Oysterquartz) is a mechanical watch. That means that it doesn't have batteries and doesn't have a quartz crystal. It has a spring that is wound up either by twisting the crown, or by harnessing the energy generated through wrist movement using a rotor. The spring powers one hundred and fifty moving parts to deliver really accurate time (gaining or losing only a few seconds a day).

To be clear, a $9 quartz watch is probably more accurate than a Rolex. But then again, a photograph is more accurate than a Monet. There's something to the art of it-- the fact that these one hundred and fifty moving parts continue to work for years on end, powered only by flicks of the wrist, through conditions as varied as scuba diving hundreds of feet deep in the ocean to climbing mount Everest.

Rolex isn't the only mechanical watch to be able to do this (Omega and Tag Heuer are similar, and I'm sure there are others I don't know about), but they are real pioneers in the field and, in terms of balancing accuracy and reliability, there is no better.

The point of all this is that a Rolex isn't a jewelry watch like a Gucci watch would be. A gucci watch would most likely be a quartz watched stamped with a bunch of logos. If they do have a mechanical watch, it would have been developed by someone else, made in China, and then stamped with logos.

I personally love the idea of a manual watch. To me it's a triumph of humanity that these things exist. I love the idea that such a rugged and precise machine can be built, and that it can fit in my watch, hidden in a tiny case.

The next most interesting thing about a Rolex is that although the price tag is quite high, it could be argued that the cost of owning one is negative. That's because Rolexes tend to appreciate over time, mainly because the style hasn't changed drastically since inception, making a 40 year old watch look roughly new.

I bought my first Rolex in 2001 for $1400. Today it would sell for $1900 if I hadn't lost it. That's not an incredible return, but it's very low risk (insure the watch from theft/loss for $30/year if you want to really make it low risk), and you get to have a cool watch for many years.

Even more interesting is that right now there are insane deals to be had on Rolexes. I actually have three of them right now because I didn't realize how plentiful good deals are, and I kept jumping on deals I thought were 'once-in-a-lifetime' deals. Some examples:

1. I bought a 1991 Air-King for $1250. I thought I was going to keep it, but one week and two Rolexes later, it's going up on eBay. I estimate that it's worth around $1700-2000.

2. I bought a 1980 DateJust for $1700. I should be able to sell this one for $1900-2000, maybe more.

3. I bought and will keep a 1999 DateJust with a diamond dial for $2100. If I wanted to sell it today, I could get around $3000.

If you combine a really good deal with years of modest appreciation, you're looking at buying a really excellent watch and earning 5-10% per year average on the "investment". On the other hand, any cheap watch you buy will tend to lose value over time. I loved my Suunto and got some really good use out of it, but I sold it for about half what I paid for it after a couple years.

Anyway, I'm not trying to convince you to buy a Rolex. I'm just trying to explain what makes them worth having, and will share some tricks to getting them really cheap. My guide to buying a Rolex will focus on the DateJust, which is the classic dress watch (that can still be worn scuba-diving), but most of the tips will work for any model.

The key dates to know for a DateJust are as follows. In 1978 Rolex introduced a "quickset" feature, which makes it much faster to switch the date at the end of a 28-30 day month. My first Rolex was a 1974 and not having quickset wasn't that big of a deal, but it's a nice feature and 1978 is a good starting point.

In the late 80s, Rolex switched the crystal from acrylic to sapphire crystal. Opinion is divided on this, with most collectors and enthusiasts favoring the acrylic crystal. Acrylic definitely looks better and doesn't hold fingerprints as much, but it is easier to scratch. Buffing out scratches with a polishing cloth is pretty easy. Sapphire, on the other hand, is pretty much impossible to scratch. I prefer Sapphire because I tend to do things that risk scratching the watch, but it's a personal choice.

In the mid nineties, the case was switched to a holeless case. This is a very minor difference-- the pins that hold the bracelet onto the watch are hidden. Since then there have been no notable improvements. The quickset movement is called a 3035 and the next evolution, introduced in 199x is called the 3135. Both of them have their strong points and their supporters-- the point is that very little has changed over the years, so you can buy an old Rolex and it's essentially the same as a new Rolex. The 1980 DateJust and the 1999 DateJust I currently have are the exact same color schemes and both keep time with the same level of accuracy. Other than the different crystal, the holeless case of the newer one, and the less worn band of the newer one, they are indistinguishable.

Because you're working with around 20 years of available Rolexes (I've never seen great deals on the newest ones), you will have a LOT of watches to choose from. This means that you can take the approach of lowballing everybody until someone accepts your deal. Given the current economy, pretty much everyone takes your offer. I've really been amazed at how cheaply people are willing to let go of these watches.

The two major places to look are Craigslist and eBay. On Craigslist, just search for Rolex with an upper price of $2500. I wouldn't ever pay more than that. A late 70s watch should go for closer to $1600. Whenever you see a watch, offer a really low price that's $100 more than most people will offer. In other words, offer $2100 instead of $2000, $1600 instead of $1500. I almost got a watch for $1300 just because everyone else was offering $1200, but someone paid his full asking price at the last minute.

Don't get attached to any given watch. in this economy a lot of people are selling their Rolexes, so another one will come up. If you overpay, or fail to get a really good deal, you're largely negating the good-deal benefit of buying a Rolex.

On Craigslist the biggest advantage you can have over other sellers is to be really easy to deal with. Most people on Craigslist are not. My initial email might look something like this:

"Hey, I'm interested in the Rolex you're selling on Craigslist. I don't mean to insult you, but I think the watch is worth about $1600. I know you're asking for more, but if you're interested in that price, I can meet you at your convenience with cash in hand."

The last watch I bought was from a really nice guy who I sent a similar email to. When I bought the watch he thanked me for being so easy to work with and kept saying how glad he was to be done with selling it. Selling on Craigslist is annoying. We both know he could have gotten a bit more money if he held out, but he would have had to meet with a bunch of unreliable people who wouldn't show up with cash, or would try to renegotiate after agreeing on a price. Convenience is worth something.

If you're buying on eBay, you again want to email offers in. Most buy it now prices aren't that great, and auctioned Rolexes, by definiton, go for market price. The ideal watch to offer on is one that's been on eBay for a few days with no bids. At that point the seller might start to wonder if it's going to get bid up or just get sold for his opening price. The Air-King I bought had a starting price of $1000 and no bids. I offered $1250 and he took it. My guess is that if he left it on eBay it would have sold for $1700 or more.

Many sellers will also list buy it now prices that are unrealistic. Email them and offer them much less. I haven't actually bought one this way but I've gotten some really solid counter-offers back.

With eBay sellers you don't really need to worry about fakes. Just look for good feedback, and if it does turn out to be fake, eBay buyer protection will cover you. In person if you don't know what to look for, you might be better off meeting at a watch store, where they can verify that it's real. It's pretty easy if you know what to look for, so they probably won't charge you for the service. If they do, it would be $10-20.

There are two color schemes for the DateJust, stainless steel and 18k gold / stainless two-tone. They are the same price right now because the stainless steel is more in style. However, because the two tone one has a real gold crown and bezel, and also real gold center links in the bracelet, it probably has a higher intrinsic value. If you like that look, I bet it will appreciate more than the stainless one over time. I prefer the stainless look, though, so I've bought only stainless ones other than my first one many years ago.

There are also two ways to make the watch significantly cheaper after buying it. If you're lucky enough to get one that comes with the Rolex boxes, you can sell those for $100-200 on eBay. Resale value isn't really impacted by not having the box (DO keep the certificate if it comes with it, though), so you may as well sell them and take the cash. I got boxes with my 1999 watch, and they're on ebay right now.

You could also consider selling the bracelet of the watch and buying an aftermarket one. An aftermarket bracelet costs $25-75 and is probably better than the one that came with the watch, since the one with the watch will be stretched out a bit from use. The original bracelets go for $300 or so on eBay, which is sort of crazy. The resale value of your watch WILL decrease if it comes with an aftermarket one, but probably not by as much as you gain by selling it.

Using all these tricks, you can easily get a nice Rolex for $1000-1500 that will sell for almost twice as much. There are so many good deals out there that if I wasn't so busy, I would probably start a side business reselling them. Here's an ebay link with the search I use to find Rolexes.

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Wed, 25 Jul 2012 23:03:06 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/buyrolex
70 is not old anymore, you are just lazy..... http://tynan.com/community/11636 Senior citizens get away with murder in this country.  I cant tell you how many so called "seniors" I know that try to pass off their laziness as old age.  Well I have some news for you grandma, 70 IS NOT OLD ANYMORE.

70 is nothing.  If you train hard you should hardly be much weaker or much slower than you were in your 30's. I see people everyday in their early 30's and even late 60's hobbling around like their life is about to end.  That is BULLSHIT.  There is no reason to let yourself deteriorate like that, you should be exercising until you are completely physically unable.  And how about some Pride?

I compete in sports on a regular bias, and age doesn't mean anything.  I get beat in races by 70 year old men and women all the time.  My father gets beat in tennis by men near 80 and he is only 65.  Until the very end you should be able to walk up stairs, shovel snow, bend down, and get off the couch unassisted.

Now before you call me a jerk, I am not talking about people who are LEGITIMATELY old.  Or people with terminal illnesses or disabilities.  80 is old.  80 is the new 70, and in 20 years 90 will be the new 80.

Its amazing but the life expectancy in 1900 was around 50 years old. 

When I retire hopefully at 62 I plan on walking outside my building, and ripping off my shirt like the incredible hulk.  I will be tan, cut, and my 32 year old girlfriend will pick me up on her motorcycle.

So lets get motivated!  You already destroyed social security for my generation, you blew up the housing market, and you are sucking up all the health care.  Most gyms give seniors discounts, and the park is free. 

Jack Lalanne was my hero, and this is for you Jack. RIP

Power out!


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Wed, 25 Apr 2012 01:49:44 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/11636
Great Read: Work out, lose weight, and stop being single http://tynan.com/community/50421 As some of you may know, Captain Power, a member of Sett, currently published a book. I am writing this because I got it on kindle a few days ago and just read it today. 

It is an awesome book - once I started it I did not stop until I was completely through a couple hours later. It is a biography of sorts, split up into very small chapters that almost all deal with bodybuilding or "game." The genius of the book is that all of these mini-stories also teaches a core concept - whether it is a weight loss tactic or a brilliant way to tease a girl. 

These are also the reason the book is so addicting - once you read the first one, you cannot help but devour the next one, and so on. And if that wasn't enough to keep me chugging along, he strings a narrative of how he seduced a billionaire's wife throughout the book, before revealing how it all went down at the end.

Anyway, great read. Self improvement principles strung together in a very entertaining way. I recommend you guys check it out -  it is only $3 on Amazon.

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Fri, 08 Mar 2013 01:48:38 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/50421