Tynan http://tynan.com Life Outside the Box en-us Mon, 24 Nov 2014 17:07:57 +0000 http://sett.com Sett RSS Generator SETT bug reports http://tynan.com/community/137262 Hey, I don't see anywhere to report SETT bugs other than here, at least as a user who doesn't have a blog of his own. Anyway, aside from the iPhone display issue I mentioned yesterday, there's a more serious one I'm seeing today: I can't load up any posts on either the blog or community page. I click on them, and sometimes it does nothing, sometimes the screen briefly darkens or the loading message in the upper left corner comes up, but the post doesn't load. Same problem with the blog and community links in the upper left, but the About Tynan.com link works for some reason. I'm using Chrome version 33.0.1750.146 on an older MacBook Pro with OSX 10.8.5

>> Comment on this Post · Like this Post

]]>
Mon, 31 Mar 2014 18:55:27 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/137262
Finished Russian http://tynan.com/community/finished-russian Yesterday I finished the last Russian tape in my quest to learn every language. I've now completed three months of German, one of Arabic, and three of Russian. I accidentally missed one day due to food poisoning, but not counting that I've stuck with this now for 210 days in a row. My plan is to continue for approximately 870 more days, at which time I will have 27 languages down. Currently I have eight, which are English, Mandarin, Japanese, Spanish, Romanian, German, Arabic, and now Russian.

Russian was by far the hardest language I've ever tried to learn. I don't think it's even close. I feel about half as prepared in Russian as I felt with German, which was the same length of time. If I went to Germany, even having done the tapes four months ago, I think I could get along decently. If I was in Russia tomorrow, I think I'd have a pretty rough time.

I also didn't really like Russian very much. It felt cumbersome in the same way Latin does, requiring so much agreement between various parts of speech. I never felt like I got a great handle on all of the distinct sounds that words are made up of.

People have questioned the utility of trying to learn all of the languages as I'm doing now. Frankly, I question it, too, sometimes. I know that I won't remember it all. My Arabic has withered to the barest of understanding. I have trouble remembering some simple words in Romanian.

I'm mainly learning all of these languages just to see what will happen. Will significant exposure to 27 languages strengthen universal lingual pathways in my brain? Will knowledge of these languages hide in the recesses of my brain, ready to be activated as soon as I go to their countries and refresh my memory?

These are the things I hope for, but I also acknowledge that it's possible nothing will come of it. Maybe I'll remember as much Arabic as I now remember of high school Chemistry. Even if that's the case, sticking to something hard for such a long time is certainly building my willpower. Most people who think this is a waste of time watch far more than half an hour a day of TV, and this can't possibly be as great a waste of time as that.

So the experiment continues happily. I did my first Thai tape today. On deck after that are Italian, Hungarian, Dutch, and French.

>> Comment on this Post · Like this Post

]]>
Thu, 28 Aug 2014 04:53:54 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/finished-russian
Nau M2 Hoodie http://tynan.com/community/107476 For any of you interested in the Nau M2 Hoodie (Tynan featured it in his 2012 Gear Post - Zen Edition), it's currently for sale on The Clymb.

When I purchased a bunch of gear in July 2013, I looked all over for the Nau M2, and couldn't find it anywhere. Now, it's on sale at 40 percent off retail.

I'd act fast if you want it, as deals tend to go quick on The Clymb.

>> Comment on this Post · Like this Post

]]>
Tue, 28 Jan 2014 22:47:12 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/107476
Rolexes: Why They're Awesome and How to Get Them Dirty Cheap http://tynan.com/community/buyrolex SHORT VERSION: Here is a link to my saved search on eBay that shows cheap Rolexes that are probably worth buying. Read on to see why. A month ago or so I wrote a post called, No One Cares if you Buy a Rolex. If you didn't read it and don't feel like doing any link-clicki]]>

SHORT VERSION: Here is a link to my saved search on eBay that shows cheap Rolexes that are probably worth buying. Read on to see why.

A month ago or so I wrote a post called, No One Cares if you Buy a Rolex. If you didn't read it and don't feel like doing any link-clicking, the gist of it was that when I was younger I bought a Rolex, assuming that people would be really impressed, but in the end no one noticed or cared. You can't buy your way into being interesting.

Ironically, in writing that post, I remembered how much I loved my Rolex, despite the fact that no one else cared about it. At the same time, I had stopped really using the advanced features of the Suunto GPS watch that I had, and was thinking about getting some different watch.

Maybe I ought to get a Rolex, I thought...

Getting something as a status symbol is really lame. Although Rolexes are seen as status symbols (again... that's mostly in theory because no one ever notices them), they're also really excellent watches. I don't think most people understand just how good a Rolex really is.

A Rolex (with the exception of a now discontinued line called the Oysterquartz) is a mechanical watch. That means that it doesn't have batteries and doesn't have a quartz crystal. It has a spring that is wound up either by twisting the crown, or by harnessing the energy generated through wrist movement using a rotor. The spring powers one hundred and fifty moving parts to deliver really accurate time (gaining or losing only a few seconds a day).

To be clear, a $9 quartz watch is probably more accurate than a Rolex. But then again, a photograph is more accurate than a Monet. There's something to the art of it-- the fact that these one hundred and fifty moving parts continue to work for years on end, powered only by flicks of the wrist, through conditions as varied as scuba diving hundreds of feet deep in the ocean to climbing mount Everest.

Rolex isn't the only mechanical watch to be able to do this (Omega and Tag Heuer are similar, and I'm sure there are others I don't know about), but they are real pioneers in the field and, in terms of balancing accuracy and reliability, there is no better.

The point of all this is that a Rolex isn't a jewelry watch like a Gucci watch would be. A gucci watch would most likely be a quartz watched stamped with a bunch of logos. If they do have a mechanical watch, it would have been developed by someone else, made in China, and then stamped with logos.

I personally love the idea of a manual watch. To me it's a triumph of humanity that these things exist. I love the idea that such a rugged and precise machine can be built, and that it can fit in my watch, hidden in a tiny case.

The next most interesting thing about a Rolex is that although the price tag is quite high, it could be argued that the cost of owning one is negative. That's because Rolexes tend to appreciate over time, mainly because the style hasn't changed drastically since inception, making a 40 year old watch look roughly new.

I bought my first Rolex in 2001 for $1400. Today it would sell for $1900 if I hadn't lost it. That's not an incredible return, but it's very low risk (insure the watch from theft/loss for $30/year if you want to really make it low risk), and you get to have a cool watch for many years.

Even more interesting is that right now there are insane deals to be had on Rolexes. I actually have three of them right now because I didn't realize how plentiful good deals are, and I kept jumping on deals I thought were 'once-in-a-lifetime' deals. Some examples:

1. I bought a 1991 Air-King for $1250. I thought I was going to keep it, but one week and two Rolexes later, it's going up on eBay. I estimate that it's worth around $1700-2000.

2. I bought a 1980 DateJust for $1700. I should be able to sell this one for $1900-2000, maybe more.

3. I bought and will keep a 1999 DateJust with a diamond dial for $2100. If I wanted to sell it today, I could get around $3000.

If you combine a really good deal with years of modest appreciation, you're looking at buying a really excellent watch and earning 5-10% per year average on the "investment". On the other hand, any cheap watch you buy will tend to lose value over time. I loved my Suunto and got some really good use out of it, but I sold it for about half what I paid for it after a couple years.

Anyway, I'm not trying to convince you to buy a Rolex. I'm just trying to explain what makes them worth having, and will share some tricks to getting them really cheap. My guide to buying a Rolex will focus on the DateJust, which is the classic dress watch (that can still be worn scuba-diving), but most of the tips will work for any model.

The key dates to know for a DateJust are as follows. In 1978 Rolex introduced a "quickset" feature, which makes it much faster to switch the date at the end of a 28-30 day month. My first Rolex was a 1974 and not having quickset wasn't that big of a deal, but it's a nice feature and 1978 is a good starting point.

In the late 80s, Rolex switched the crystal from acrylic to sapphire crystal. Opinion is divided on this, with most collectors and enthusiasts favoring the acrylic crystal. Acrylic definitely looks better and doesn't hold fingerprints as much, but it is easier to scratch. Buffing out scratches with a polishing cloth is pretty easy. Sapphire, on the other hand, is pretty much impossible to scratch. I prefer Sapphire because I tend to do things that risk scratching the watch, but it's a personal choice.

In the mid nineties, the case was switched to a holeless case. This is a very minor difference-- the pins that hold the bracelet onto the watch are hidden. Since then there have been no notable improvements. The quickset movement is called a 3035 and the next evolution, introduced in 199x is called the 3135. Both of them have their strong points and their supporters-- the point is that very little has changed over the years, so you can buy an old Rolex and it's essentially the same as a new Rolex. The 1980 DateJust and the 1999 DateJust I currently have are the exact same color schemes and both keep time with the same level of accuracy. Other than the different crystal, the holeless case of the newer one, and the less worn band of the newer one, they are indistinguishable.

Because you're working with around 20 years of available Rolexes (I've never seen great deals on the newest ones), you will have a LOT of watches to choose from. This means that you can take the approach of lowballing everybody until someone accepts your deal. Given the current economy, pretty much everyone takes your offer. I've really been amazed at how cheaply people are willing to let go of these watches.

The two major places to look are Craigslist and eBay. On Craigslist, just search for Rolex with an upper price of $2500. I wouldn't ever pay more than that. A late 70s watch should go for closer to $1600. Whenever you see a watch, offer a really low price that's $100 more than most people will offer. In other words, offer $2100 instead of $2000, $1600 instead of $1500. I almost got a watch for $1300 just because everyone else was offering $1200, but someone paid his full asking price at the last minute.

Don't get attached to any given watch. in this economy a lot of people are selling their Rolexes, so another one will come up. If you overpay, or fail to get a really good deal, you're largely negating the good-deal benefit of buying a Rolex.

On Craigslist the biggest advantage you can have over other sellers is to be really easy to deal with. Most people on Craigslist are not. My initial email might look something like this:

"Hey, I'm interested in the Rolex you're selling on Craigslist. I don't mean to insult you, but I think the watch is worth about $1600. I know you're asking for more, but if you're interested in that price, I can meet you at your convenience with cash in hand."

The last watch I bought was from a really nice guy who I sent a similar email to. When I bought the watch he thanked me for being so easy to work with and kept saying how glad he was to be done with selling it. Selling on Craigslist is annoying. We both know he could have gotten a bit more money if he held out, but he would have had to meet with a bunch of unreliable people who wouldn't show up with cash, or would try to renegotiate after agreeing on a price. Convenience is worth something.

If you're buying on eBay, you again want to email offers in. Most buy it now prices aren't that great, and auctioned Rolexes, by definiton, go for market price. The ideal watch to offer on is one that's been on eBay for a few days with no bids. At that point the seller might start to wonder if it's going to get bid up or just get sold for his opening price. The Air-King I bought had a starting price of $1000 and no bids. I offered $1250 and he took it. My guess is that if he left it on eBay it would have sold for $1700 or more.

Many sellers will also list buy it now prices that are unrealistic. Email them and offer them much less. I haven't actually bought one this way but I've gotten some really solid counter-offers back.

With eBay sellers you don't really need to worry about fakes. Just look for good feedback, and if it does turn out to be fake, eBay buyer protection will cover you. In person if you don't know what to look for, you might be better off meeting at a watch store, where they can verify that it's real. It's pretty easy if you know what to look for, so they probably won't charge you for the service. If they do, it would be $10-20.

There are two color schemes for the DateJust, stainless steel and 18k gold / stainless two-tone. They are the same price right now because the stainless steel is more in style. However, because the two tone one has a real gold crown and bezel, and also real gold center links in the bracelet, it probably has a higher intrinsic value. If you like that look, I bet it will appreciate more than the stainless one over time. I prefer the stainless look, though, so I've bought only stainless ones other than my first one many years ago.

There are also two ways to make the watch significantly cheaper after buying it. If you're lucky enough to get one that comes with the Rolex boxes, you can sell those for $100-200 on eBay. Resale value isn't really impacted by not having the box (DO keep the certificate if it comes with it, though), so you may as well sell them and take the cash. I got boxes with my 1999 watch, and they're on ebay right now.

You could also consider selling the bracelet of the watch and buying an aftermarket one. An aftermarket bracelet costs $25-75 and is probably better than the one that came with the watch, since the one with the watch will be stretched out a bit from use. The original bracelets go for $300 or so on eBay, which is sort of crazy. The resale value of your watch WILL decrease if it comes with an aftermarket one, but probably not by as much as you gain by selling it.

Using all these tricks, you can easily get a nice Rolex for $1000-1500 that will sell for almost twice as much. There are so many good deals out there that if I wasn't so busy, I would probably start a side business reselling them. Here's an ebay link with the search I use to find Rolexes.

>> Comment on this Post · Like this Post

]]>
Wed, 25 Jul 2012 23:03:06 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/buyrolex
Wool Jeans http://tynan.com/community/775133 Any good finds/new products for wool jeans? I check periodically and recently found these (http://www.howies.us.com/woolim-wool-jeans-indigo.html) but they're a blend and only 40% wool. Are the Versace jeans a blend as well or are they 100% wool?

>> Comment on this Post · Like this Post

]]>
Fri, 17 Oct 2014 00:59:04 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/775133
@Tynan on Maintaining Habits over Weekends http://tynan.com/community/861093 Hi Tynan,

I finished your book on habits recently and gained an immense amount from it. Though, one thing that I felt was lacking was a discussion on what is to me the most danger to the livelihood of new habits: The weekends.

I have a solid list of triggers that I go through on weekdays that 95% of the time gives me good results and a near 100% completion of all habits. The triggers are highly tied to the fact that I come to the office to work every morning.

On the weekends I lose all of these triggers, and I'm lucky if I even get out of bed on time. My habit tracking highly reflects this truth.

I realize you don't have weekends because you work from home and keep a mostly constant schedule, but to the average 9-5er this problem is the equivalent habit-buster to having to travel every single weekend. It throws you in a chaotic situation where your triggers aren't around to help.

Can you think of any potential solutions to this problem?

>> Comment on this Post · Like this Post

]]>
Wed, 29 Oct 2014 03:04:24 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/861093
I love using /var on sites as much as the other guy http://tynan.com/community/840916 But it's not really simple to use to make a website or operating systems, you need to know a lot of code!

Most people use Wordpress for the "simple way" to use /var, i recommend SETT for the best way to use /var, also breaking the 4th wall is strange to me considering your reading this on SETT.

- Var

>> Comment on this Post · Like this Post

]]>
Sun, 26 Oct 2014 00:55:06 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/840916
betting strategy that works http://tynan.com/community/821720 123456789.10.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.18.19----19 losing bets in a row can happen. Pretty unusual, but it has happened to me. Loss only $145. Playing Blackjack, roulette, Baccarat, any even money game, I can recover from this loss. Starting bankroll must be 1000 times minimum bet. You can try my system on 10 cent games where you only need a starting balance of $100. I f you need more details of my method email me at clicktocontact me@gmail.com

>> Comment on this Post · Like this Post

]]>
Thu, 23 Oct 2014 17:36:14 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/821720
SETT Bugs! http://tynan.com/community/sett-bugs Hey guys, if you find a bug in SETT, reply to this with the info. You can embed screenshots if necessary or paste error messages. If you've experienced a bug that someone else has already reported, you can vote it up so that we know it's more important.

>> Comment on this Post · Like this Post

]]>
Fri, 06 Apr 2012 19:08:38 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/sett-bugs
Rialta: Apple laptop charger hack! http://tynan.com/community/473660 Hi guys,

Been a while! Hope everyone's well!

I discovered a little Rialta hack for my Apple laptop that I wanted to share.

I'm lazy and haven't re-wired the stock wiring to the 12V outlet, under the desk. Because of the lightweight stock wiring, I was always encountering a problem where, whenever my Apple laptop was both turned on and charging the battery (i.e. < 100% battery), it would cause the fuse on that circuit to pop. (Of note, I could charge the battery, but only if the laptop was off.)

This also created a nasty scenario where, if my laptop battery wasn't full, I couldn't use my laptop in the Rialta (since my laptop would immediately start to charge the battery if I plugged it in, and turned it on... gah).

So, I thought about it and hunted down this hack:
http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/87924/how-to-disable-battery-charging

TL;DR - If you put a piece of tape over the middle pin of your Magsafe charger, it will prevent the charger from charging the battery, but the charger will still be used to power the laptop.

In my situation with the stock wiring, this allows me to use my laptop whenever it's not fully charged and let's me not drain my coach batteries, just to charge my laptop.

Hope that helps someone! Cheers!

>> Comment on this Post · Like this Post

]]>
Sat, 16 Aug 2014 06:08:27 +0000 http://tynan.com/community/473660