Ever since the first NEX-5 came out, I've been trumpeting its strong points. With the notable exception of the amazing new Sony RX1, the NEX-5 series is the smallest camera with an APS-C or bigger sensor. In other words, it's the smallest camera that you can really get professional level shots out of. The two big features that I've wanted ever since Sony came out with this camera are in-camera charging so that I don't have to carry around a separate charger, and an audio-in port.
The built in microphone is acceptable, but if there's any amount of wind or background noise, audio quality degrades very quickly. Despite the incredible optical quality of the camera, the audio quality when recording videos has been its Achilles' heel, making many videos unusable. All that Sony would need to do to fix this is put a tiny little microphone jack on the camera. The new NEX-6 and the NEX-7 both have microphone jacks, but getting that jack isn't worth the (admittedly small) increase in camera size.
In a desperate attempt to improve sound quality, I bought Sony's own solution, a microphone that clips to the top of the camera. While it's better than the built-in mic, the microphone was still vulnerable to camera noise as well as background noise. Plus, sometimes you just want to wear a little clip-on lav mic and not worry about outside sounds.
I searched online for some solution, but although there was speculation that it might be possible to hack something together, no one had actually done it. One night, as I drifted off to sleep, my mind circled back around to the microphone issue. I had been recording a video every day for a couple months, and I really wished that I could just plug a microphone in. There had to be a solution. I decided that since the add-on Sony mic wasn't that great anyway, I'd take it apart the next day and see what I could figure out.
Now, it may be worth pausing here to mention that I am not great with electronics. I have the cheapest soldering iron available, and I barely know how to use it. In fact, my method of soldering is so bad that I suspect I'm the only one who does it this way. Other than a childhood penchant for taking things apart (and usually not bothering to put them back together), I have no real experience with this sort of stuff. I mention all this, because I imagine that the following paragraphs are going to a) make me sound like I know what I'm doing and b) possibly scare you away from trying this. The reality is that I'm a complete amateur who's just dedicated and reckless enough to make stuff like this happen, and that the process is actually pretty easy.
So the next morning I woke up and began prying away at the microphone. It was actually pretty fun finding all the hidden screws and detentes holding the thing together. Cut down to its bare components, the Sony ECM-SST1 has a very strange design. It has two very cheap looking microphones, but they're suspended by rubber bands as you'd expect a high-end microphone to be constructed. One faces straight forward and the other faces directly perpendicular to the side. I can't quite wrap my head around how Sony gets good stereo separation from a design like this, but it does. Upon seeing the setup, I actually put the mic back together to test the stereo functionality. My guess is that the front mic is responsible for picking up all the sound and that the sideways mic is responsible for positioning. I mention this not because it's at all relevant to the procedure I'm going to outline, but rather because I figure it may give more experienced people some ideas on how to improve my method.
I found a pinout diagram online of the proprietary (why does everything have to be proprietary, Sony?) connector, which clearly labeled the microphone channels. Of interest is that there are actually THREE channels, plus a ground. Left, right, and center. Also of interest, the microphone doesn't use the center channel. So it's there for some accessory that hasn't yet revealed itself, I guess. I cut the left, right, and microphone ground, and wired them up to a microphone.
It recorded sound, but it was extremely noisy and hard to hear. Far worse than the internal mic. I tried reversing the channels, using just left or just right as mono channels, grounding the ground to other stuff, but nothing would make it sound anywhere approaching decent. Always noisy. This was pretty frustrating, because I was sure that it would work. I was impelled to give up, but the dream of audio-in for the NEX was just too real. There had to be some way to do it.
I clumsily soldered the tiny wires that I had cut back together, insulated them with heat shrink tubing, and stared at the blasted contraption. I cut all of the wires going to the two front microphones and decided to test what would happen if I hooked the front one up to an audio jack. I should mention here that the suspense was excruciating, because for every test I'd have to solder everything together, record a video, and then transfer it to the computer to listen and make sure the audio quality was good. But in this case it paid off-- I was rewarded with crystal clear audio! The first words ever uttered into an NEX-5N via a 3rd party microphone were "Oh god, this had better work."
Giddy with success, I immediately set out to figure out the best way to use my contraption on a long term basis. All of my tests had been done with the guts of the microphone strung along across the top of the camera. Hardly a sustainable solution. My first inclination was to use the now defunct microphone enclosure, adding an audio port to the back. I actually went so far as to drill a hole in the back of it, when I spotted the NEX flash across my desk. Now, I'm not sure if I'm just such a bad photographer that I don't understand how to use the flash, or if this flash is so bad that makes every photo look worse, but I never use it. Maybe, I thought, I could make it into an enclosure for the microphone circuitry. This would allow me to have a much smaller unit and a flat surface on the top to mount a microphone-carrying cold shoe.
Next thing I knew, I was prying apart the flash and had discarded the innards of it, leaving a nice empty shell to play with. A bit of drilling and cajoling later, I had my unit all together. Nonfunctional flash in front, audio processing on the inside, and a nice 3.5mm audio jack on the side. Triumphantly I recorded a video explaining what I had done and swapped it over to my computer to hear how good it sounded. And it did sound good-- in the left channel. It turns out that in my haste to put the flash back together, I had pulled loose one of the extremely delicate wires attached to the connector. The next half hour of my life was spent trying to fix this, and, in the process, breaking most of the other wires and covering the whole hot mess in solder. In short, I completely ruined everything.
I did what any other reasonable person would do next, and I ordered another Sony microphone to gut for parts. It arrived today, and I'm happy to say that using its cable I was able to hook up my original board to make the first ever fully-functional 3.5mm microphone port for a Sony NEX-5. Here's proof:
If you'd like to do the same, here's how (video at the bottom):
1. First, take apart the microphone. I recorded a full video on how to do this below, so I won't get into the particulars here. The short version of it is that you uncover the hidden screws at the bottom to remove the connector, and then very carefully pry everything else apart. Be particularly careful with the cable that runs from the connector to the board, because it's damn near impossible to repair if you break it.
2. From the microphone, all you need is the cable I mentioned in step one, and the squarish logic board. There are five or so wires coming off of the board. If you're a better tinkerer than I am, I bet you can figure out how to use them all to get stereo sound. If you're not that clever, just pull off all of them except for the two closest to the edge, labeled M1 and MicGND. I pulled those off, too, and soldered directly to their pads, but this was pretty tricky and I wouldn't bet in favor of me duplicating the feat. Better to just leave the wires attached and use them.
3. Desolder the switch. To do that, just pinch the switch in a way that pulls it from the board, while applying the soldering iron to the opposite side. Hold it until your fingers burn, take a second to cool down, and try again. You'll make incremental progress, feeling the switch detaching from the board. Just a couple minutes of this will get it off. I blobbed a bunch of solder between the two contacts labeled 90. I'm not sure if it's necessary to do this or not, but it seemed like a solid idea.
4. So now you should have a cable, the square board, and just two leads coming off of it. Now look towards your flash with warring eyes and start taking it apart, too. Just remove the connector part as we did with the microphone, and then remove the plastic sticky panels on the side and hit those four black screws. Whatever you do, do not remove the silver screws that are holding the springs down. It's not necessary, and I'm not sure there's a more frustrating task than trying to put them back in. Pull out all the flash business, keeping only the plastic grey shell and the clear plastic lens. You can also get rid of the big vertical piece of plastic inside the flash and the smaller vertical piece behind the big thumbscrew. Pay special attention to the angle that the clear flash lens sits at-- it's not obvious once you take it apart.
5. Next you drill a 1/4" hole in the side of the flash for the audio jack to go through. You'll have to do a bit of positioning and measuring to find the right spot for it. Only once you've drilled that hole should you solder the leads of the audio jack to the leads coming off of your audio board.
6. I covered the whole board in masking tape just to make sure it didn't accidentally bump up against the audio jack contacts and short something.
7. There will probably be only one way that the board will fit in at this point, so go ahead and put it in. Hopefully you tested this before positioning your audio jack.
8. Now just close the whole thing up. The two front black screws won't have anything to bite into anymore, but put them in anyway. The adhesive plastic will hold them in place and together they'll prevent the top from becoming separated. Use the connector cladding pieces that you took from the microphone. The ones that came with the flash won't connect correctly without some modification.
And that's it! If it comes out anything like mine, it will be just a little bit janky looking, but will function like a champ. Here's a video of the procedure:
hi Tynan, you effort is really interesting.
I have always complained about Nex-5N lack of mic input, and Nex-6 and Nex-7 are no option for me: the first one cause I think it's not worth the upgrade (and the control dial looks so ugly!), second one has too high megapixel count, noise is worse than my little 5n.
Anyway, all this things about the external mic are quite strange.
Internal stereo mic is probably as simple as possible, so left and right go directly to the respective channels.
I wonder why the external one has perpendicular mics and circuitry for processing the signal.
If the electronics are on the external mic as you showed it means that out of it we should have a balanced stereo signal, so I don't understand why connecting directly a stereo mic to the connector gave a noisy signal.
It would be interesting to know if that signal was stereo or not and if correctly balanced.
The fact that your solution has only one channel is also very strange, being the sony mic a stereo one.
It would also be interesting to know which are the components on the small board, if we can replicate it without having to buy and break each time a new sony mic it would be clearly better.
Probably I have been a bit confusing, but I just wrote what came out of my mind in the excitment of reading and watching the video :)
its called 'middle and side' recording.the electronics subtract the side from the middle to derive the 'other side and make stereo. Its popular - or was - in film production
Hi Tynan and Riccardo,
Nice work Tynan! Thanks to your video peek inside the sony mic I'll be trying out something similar to suit my slightly different needs.
For what it's worth, the Sony mic is set up in a Mid-Side stereo configuration.
The circuitry would be decoding the mid and side information into a stereo signal (more or less splitting the 'side' and inverting the duplicate, then mixing each with the 'mid' signal to create left and right)
You won't be able to get a simple L/R from an XY configured microphone (or two separate channels from a couple of lapels) with this chip without somehow bypassing the MS decoding, which I imagine would be mighty tricky.
Also, I'm assuming there is some pre-amplification of the microphone signal done by the chip. My guess would be that this is why your initial attempt at soldering directly to the connector resulted in low level, noisy audio. The camera or your software would have had to boost an extremely low mic-level signal.
I'm after a line-level input (to come from a separate microphone preamplifier), so I'm hoping I'll be able to get away with your first idea. Now I just need to hunt down that pinout diagram you mentioned...
Anyway, thanks again for taking the plunge and sharing the results.
Nigel - that's exactly what I thought - the pinout Tynan described of the stereo mic screamed M/S decoding to me. I am an audio pro but this seems like a whole lot of work to get a mic attached - especially if you want to keep the rig lean and mean. I have several standalone audio recorders so maybe I'll continue syncing my Zoom H1 + Nex 5 audio (sigh...) and save up for a real dSLR
Hi Tynan, thanks for all your effort. I was hoping Sony would have equipped the follow up version NEX-5R with a 3.5 mm jack but they didn't. Now I'm hoping the successor of the NEX-5R will have one. Michael
You are awesome for doing this, I didn't think it was possible. I own a 5N and SST1 mic, it's better than I thought it would be. But better than that, would be better!!
hi Tynan, i'm from Colombia.. and really i'm interested in your in jack 3.5" for my sony nex 5n. how can I will buy you flash-injack? I wait you answer. thanks so much. my email is firstname.lastname@example.org. again thanks.
can you do more video tests with the mic to show more of its capabilities? also if you have other mics to use with the camera can you show them in action also?
I just received and thoroughly tested the DIY NEX-5 audio adapter that Tynan crafted and it works great! I couldn't be more happy - it looks and functions like it came straight from the Sony factory - but of course it didn't... because Sony sucks for not making them in the first place.
Great job Tynan. You should consider making a few more. Although, now that I've already spent my $200 on your nifty device, I will say that you should charge more. $200 barely covers the cost of the Sony flash and external microphone that need to be hacked to make this audio adapter.
Hello Tynan! Im very interested buy the 3.5mm audio in of nex-5 from you! let me know what I have to do!
I wanted to say thank you! I rebuilt my mic for the NEX-5 now. I had the same idea as you and I bought a ECM-SST-1. Then I tried on the cable between the connector and board to intrude but this has just launched a mega "hum" out! I've already finished and then wanted to sell the mic to be defective! Then I found your article and now I have the mic rebuilt so as you ( in Stereo).
Thank you. Greetings from Germany,
PS: if you want I can send you a picture.
I spent $1800 on my first high quality camera. I was on the brink of Life Nomadic, and I justified the purchase with two ideas. The first was that I would be seeing a lot of things for the first, and possibly the only, time. Second, the particular camera I bought, an Epson R-D1s, seemed to hold its value well.
It came as a shock to a lot of people how primitive my camera was in many ways. It had no autofocus, no flash, no video recording capabilities, no self timer, and the only thing it could do automatically was light metering. It did that poorly. After each shot it was necessary to thumb a switch, which mechanically reset the spring for the shutter.
I bought a single lens for it, a Nokton 40mm/1.4. It had no zoom, and the aperture was set mechanically by rotating a ring on the lens. The lens was gorgeous. For those who don't know, a 1.4 F-Stop means that the lens is very fast: it lets in a lot of light. The average camera lens is probably around an f/3.5, which lets in only an eighth as much light as mine did. That's how I got amazing low-light pictures like this one.
I've had several people ask me what hardware I use to capture content. First, here are a few examples of the content I've captured:
Pew Research's "9 Tribes of the Internet" presentation
Mobile presentation at the Finnish Embassy
Here's what's in my bag of tricks (total cost $230.83):
Kodak Zi-6 HD Camcorder ($129.99 or get it refurbished for $99.99). This is a great little device and it captures video in HD. I prefer it over the very popular Flip camera for a few reasons: 1) It accepts external SD cards. This is a huge deal, as it gives you expandable storage (the camera uses about 1 gig every 15 mins, so you should get at least an 8 gig card for $20.51). 2) It uses regular AA batteries that can be swapped out when you need to, instead of having to recharge via USB connection.
I've had several people ask me what hardware I use to capture content. First, here are a few examples of the content I've captured: Pew Research's "9 Tribes of the Internet" presentation Mobile presentation at the Finnish Embassy Here's what's in my bag of tricks (total cost $230.83): Kodak Zi-6 HD Camcorder ($129.99 or get it refurbished for $99.99). This is a great little device and it captures video in HD. I prefer it over the very popular Flip camera for a few reasons: 1) It accepts external SD cards. This is a huge deal, as it gives you expandable storage (the camera uses about 1 gig every 15 mins, so you should get at least an 8 gig card for $20.51). 2) It uses regular AA batteries that can be swapped out when you need to, instead of having to recharge via USB connection. Vimeo Plus membership ($50/year), which allows me to upload HD video (YouTube allows this now too; I like the Vimeo interface better but you might not want to pay $50/year) USB Digital Voice Recorder (here's a good one from Amazon for $49.97). Make sure you get the type that just plugs into your computer using a USB connection - no cables required. Omnidirectional tabletop microphone ($22.99, plugs into the digital voice recorder). Great for capturing panelists by just putting it on the table; turns the surface area of the table into a microphone. A regular sized tripod, and the T-Pod tabletop tripod or the QuickPod ($17.37 on Amazon). These are critical to setting the Kodak Zi-6 camera up in places that aren't expecting you to be capturing content! Eneloop rechargable batteries (Costco & Sam's Club sell these for less than Amazon, about $20 for a set) You'll go through batteries quickly - about every 30 to 45 minutes on the Kodak camera, so always have replacements. The Kodak takes two AA batteries and my Olympus recorder takes one AAA (not sure about the RCA but probably similar). Some Additional Tips: I always put the voice recorder up by the speaker or panelists even if I'm videotaping using the Kodak HD camera. This way I get a clean audio source. If necessary, I can always splice them together using an editing program like iMovie, however I always try VERY hard to ensure there is no editing involved (i.e., get the Kodak HD video camera close enough to the speakers to be able to use its audio). Once you start editing, the content uploading process easily can take 10x as long. Do your best to never edit video, even if it looks less professional. Better to have it up & accessible than sitting on your to-do list because you haven't gotten around to doing the edits yet. By the way, an issue with getting the Kodak HD camera close will be that you can't get everyone in your shot if its a panel, etc. Here's a great blog post on a hardware hack to put a wide angle lens on a Flip camera. I haven't tried it on the Kodak yet, but it should work just as well. I have a contractor who transcribes my audio for between 50 cents to 1 dollar per minute of audio captured. This is another reason I use the digital voice recorder and the Kodak HD video camera. It's much easier to upload the audio and send it to her, than to wait until the video is uploaded. Let me know if you'd like her contact information. Also, by recording the audio separately, I can use AudioAcrobat to turn the audio into an iTunes Podcast. Also, Vimeo (and all the upload sites such as YouTube, Viddler, etc) has a limit of 1 gig per video, so I often have to upload the videos in segments (1 of 7, etc.) to upload the entire event.